A Place Both Wonderful and Strange – Tash & Ricki's Career Break Travels

In an effort to find the most cost effective route back to Europe, we found ourselves returning to Mexico City. Having visited in November 2019, it was the last holiday we had before “global pandemic” and “covid-19” entered our vocabulary.

The title of this post stems not from the weather (although we were visiting during rainy season) but the fact we were happy to go back and check out a number of “must do” attractions that we hadn’t managed to see last time.

First up was the museum and archaeological site, Templo Mayor. This was the main temple of the Aztec capital Tenochtitlán, serving as a sacred site for worshipping the gods Huitzilopochtli and Tlaloc, and is now a significant archaeological site showcasing the grandeur of the Aztec civilization.

At the time we visited, it also felt more like a fortress. Despite already being familiar with Mexico City’s Zócalo we spent upwards of an hour just trying to navigate this main square, which was partially shut off due to a local festival. Every time we asked a security guard or marshal where the entrance to Templo Mayor was, we received an assertive “that way” and point of the finger which led us on goose chase after goose chase. We even had to take a lunch break between attempts.

Eventually we got on the right track, through an unsigned barrier that had to be moved aside by a guard. For one of CDMX’s prime attractions, it was certainly discreet in its entrance.

Thankfully the site was worth the 1.5 (plus 4.5 years) wait. To see such extensive temple ruins right in the heart of a bustling city is such an unusual contrast.

And the accompanying museum had so many fascinating artifacts. 

Perhaps poetically, as tricky as we found it to get into the site, it was going to be another game getting out. This time it was the weather gods playing havoc, as a downpour began as soon as we got to the furthest part of the site from the entrance/exit. Cue an extraction mission involving lots of waiting followed by dashes between strategically placed awnings. 

Next up, we made a return visit to Chalpultepec Park, Mexico City’s extensive green lung. In 2019, we had a brief wander through the park and to the modern art museum, but now we would be checking out El Castillo de Chapultepec. The former Imperial and Presidential residence sits atop a small hill, and Race Across the World fans might recognise it as the starting point for series 2.

There would be no frantic racing for us as we enjoyed a leisurely morning touring the Castillo.

We took a brief lunch stop back in the park, and while munching our sandwiches noticed some traditionally attired men gathering around a tall pole. Despite Ricki insisting they were probably just tidying away some rope, I stuck to my assertion they were doing it in a pretty elaborate way and was rewarded for suggesting we “hang around” a bit longer (sorry, can’t help myself) with a performance from the indigenous Voladores.

Suitably entertained, now it was time for the Museum of Anthropology. We had ignored this muesum on our last trip, not realising just how renowned it is.

Again, filled with incredible items, it charts the various eras and settlements of Mexico, almost to the point of being overwhelming. In preparation for our visit, we had watched a film on Netflix called Museo based on the true(ish) story of two men’s successful robbery of the museum. Maybe I shouldn’t refer to it as “preparatory”, as we weren’t taking notes. Though we have to fund this year somehow!

A real highlight was getting to see the death mask of Pakal, Mayan ruler of Mexico’s Palenque region.

This was a nostalgic hit as our 2019 holiday had included a very long day trip from San Cristobal de la Casas to Palenque, where we saw Pakal’s tomb. On that occasion we were shown around by a guide who insisted Mayan history is “garbage” and that they were actually astronauts. Funnily enough, the Museo’s interpretation of events didn’t refer to space travel.

Our final activity of note was a group trip to Xochimilco (pronounced “So-Chee-Meel-ko” if you’re wondering). This town is most famous for its canal network and the colourful barges that traverse them.

Many tours will take you straight to the boats, but our guide Oscar gave us a high level tour of the town first. This included a trip to the market, where to our surprise he wangled a few samples for us. I had forgotten how good mole sauce is, and roast lamb. Thankfully an Earthquake evacuation of the market proved to be a false alarm.

And so to the boats. We had picked a Friday for our visit as we hoped it would be good balance of lively atmosphere, without being too busy. We got our wish and as we travelled down the streams, there was always something to see.

Vendors on their own gondolas floated along selling drinks and souvenirs, mariachi bands would move for hire between boats, and for those on a more flexible timetable there was the option to hop on and off at shops and cafes along the shore.

Between gazing around, we enjoyed chatting with the American ladies who were on the tour with us while tucking into a taco lunch provided by Oscar.

We were also able to try pulque, a fermented drink made from agave sap – like a cousin of tequila. 

Altogether it was a wonderful trip. We had been worried Xochimilco would be a tourist trap, but it is visibly something that locals like to enjoy too. I actually felt like even if we had visited it in 2019, I would have still wanted to come back again this time round. Choosing dfferent days and different guides, probably results in a range of different experiences that you can have too, though I think we picked the perfect one for us.

Of course it has been a joy getting to experience so many new places this year, but this first return destination certainly didn’t disappoint. And now we can vanquish the feelings of regret for things we didn’t do in 2019.

Let’s just hope our visit this time hasn’t been the precursor to another you-know-what!

Tash’s Treats

Limited eating out in Mexico meant limited culinary adventures.

The Xochimilco trip at least gave us an opportunity to try the tacos and pulque mentioned above. In addition, Ricki still found the appetite to have this dish in the market. I haven’t recorded what it was, but think it is a tortilla with nopale (cactus) Although he never got his hands on his favourite snack from 2019 – grasshoppers!

As planned, I spent much of the week keeping my eye out for fruity, chilli sweets which I had been dreaming of since our mate sharing experience in Buenos Aires. I’ve already been looking up sites where I can buy these once we return to the UK.