A Place Both Wonderful and Strange – Tash & Ricki's Career Break Travels

A few days before we were due to cross the border into Laos, the country made international headlines — for all the wrong reasons. Several tourists had died through alcohol poisoning, raising serious questions about the shortcuts some hospitality operators might make in favour of profits. Suddenly that homebrew rice wine we’d accepted in the hills of Chiang Rai seemed like a slightly foolish decision.

Our first stop in Laos was the capital, Vientiane, which unfortunately earns the dubious honour of being one of the most uninspiring capitals we’ve ever visited.

It’s not that Vientiane was bad, just compared to other capital cities it lacked much to see or do. We gave it a fair shake — wandered the riverfront, admired the temples, scaled the Patuxai war monument, and then made a swift exit.

A selection of sites around town

Patuxai, or Victory Monument – Laos’ own Arc de Triomphe recognising those who fought in the war for independence from France

Next up: Vang Vieng. The scene of the alleged crime. We’d braced ourselves for the worst — a ghost town with a hangover, maybe — but were pleasantly surprised. Whether it was the timing, our choice of guesthouse, or simply media sensationalism, the place was far from the debauched mess you’d be led to expect.

In fact, the town itself was pretty sleepy (or perhaps people were keeping their heads down in reverence to the tourists who had sadly lost their lives, and while the glare of the world was on them). The real appeal lay just beyond the tuk-tuk-choked roads — out where the karst mountains poked dramatically out of the landscape.

One morning we took on one of those peaks, glad we’d scheduled this career break while still (relatively) young and limber. The climb was part hiking, part scrambling, part blind faith. At times, the only thing between us and a painful tumble was a rusted cable or a particularly sturdy-looking tree root.

But we made it, sweaty and satisfied, rewarded with sweeping views and slightly incredulous at whoever must have lugged not one, but two, motorcycle frames up the hillside.

Adventure didn’t end there. Like everyone else in town, we joined the tuk-tuk convoy bouncing out toward another day of “fun” — that loosely defined concept that involves strapping yourself to things and hoping for the best.

Kayaking downriver was a blissful bookend to a day that also included cave tubing and zip-lining through the jungle canopy. The fear levels were surprisingly low (or perhaps dulled by the prior cave darkness), but the adrenaline was real.

Just when we thought we’d run out of gravity-defying activities, we found ourselves at one of the local blue lagoons, launching ourselves off rope swings like teenagers at summer camp.

Sunset and sunrise are when Vang Vieng really comes into its own. Assuming the skies stay clear, hot air balloons and motorised paragliders take to the air en masse.

With the end of our incredible year creeping up fast, we decided to splash out on a hot air balloon ride. Ricki, who generally prefers both feet on solid ground (and ideally a few metres inside a sturdy building), was surprisingly game.

And — miracle of miracles — he did great. No vertigo, no panicked clinging to the basket edge. That honour went to someone else entirely, who did a commendable job of internalising their terror.

Our pilot was not only calm and capable, but gave a running commentary on altitude and direction like a very chill air traffic controller. We gazed out over fields, rivers, and the surreal silhouettes of other balloons climbing ever higher – one even appearing to be taking a trip to the sun.

Eventually, gravity did what gravity does best. Steering is more of a suggestion than a skill in a balloon, so we wound up touching down in a farmer’s field, much to the surprise of his herd of cows — and to the ire of the farmer himself. We offered sheepish smiles, which didn’t stop him from unleashing what we can only assume were a few colourful phrases.

Our final stop in Laos was Luang Prabang, and thank goodness we saved the best for last. After the dullness of Vientiane and the dust of Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang felt like a reward — all French architecture, golden temples, and fragrant street food (I’m going to dispense with a Tash’s Treats section in this final post – but some “treats” included larb, beef lips and chicken feet). We spent our days soaking it in.

A sunset hike up Mount Phousi had been highly recommended, though “serene” it was not. The summit was packed, a tangle of selfie sticks and elbows.

But Kuang Si waterfalls more than made up for it. With far fewer people and far more space to explore, we climbed gently up through the forest before cooling off with a swim in the unreal turquoise pools.

From there, it was time to trade adventure for indulgence. Thailand was calling — specifically, the beachy cocoon of Koh Samui. Seven days of sun, sea, sand, pad Thai, and very little movement followed. Travel is hard, okay?

We rounded things off with a day trip to Koh Tao for some snorkelling — though the boat ride nearly undid a few of our group. Seasickness is no joke. But the minute we plunged into the water, it was like swimming into a screensaver: coral reefs, shoals of fish, even a green turtle or two gliding calmly.

Video credit goes to someone in our group – and now I want a Go Pro!

Naturally, that last week was the fastest of the year. Before we knew it, we were hauling our sun-tinted selves back onto a plane, and then a train, and eventually into the grey drizzle of Dunfermline just in time for Christmas.

And cheesy as it is, 2024 was a present all of its own. Not once did we take it for granted, and I plan to do it more justice in a final wrap-up blog entry to follow.