A Place Both Wonderful and Strange – Tash & Ricki's Career Break Travels

Exactly a year to the day since we left for a two week holiday to Thailand, we coincidentally found ourselves heading back again. The third city that would be a revisit for us this year, we were looking forward to seeing what more there was to offer in Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit…also known as Bangkok.

One of our longer bus journeys took us from Siem Reap to Bangkok, and once more travelling with Giant Ibis, it was a comfortable, smooth one. Except for the poor girl who realised her suitcase hadn’t made it to the border with us, and it transpired that it was on its way to Laos. Oops. Rather her than us.

After a few weeks of fast paced travels through Vietnam and Cambodia, we would be taking another five night stop in Bangkok to reset.

Hot on our to do list was a trip to one of the floating markets. This is considered a must-do, but when we visited last, they weren’t available to us as they only run at the weekend.

The one we selected ended up being less market and more canal tour followed by street food, but there is nothing wrong with that!

There was also some bonus “komodo dragon” spotting to boot. Thankfully these turned out to be water monitors rather than actual komodo dragons, otherwise we might have been the street food (or canal food, I guess).

Another favourite part of the tour was a stop at an orchid farm

We also made sure to take a wander around Chinatown by day, which we had previously only visited at night. The historic winding alleys and traditional homes are such a contrast among the sprawling concrete jungle that is Bangkok.

The city also gave me a couple of opportunities to venture outside my comfort zone. Large distances and heavy traffic make getting around a nightmare, especially if you aren’t on a public transport route. As we compared Grab (the Asian equivalent of Uber) times for cars v scooters, I decided to give in to the two wheeled option, Ricki having already given one a go in Ho Chi Minh City.

In no particular order, concerns about safety and the etiquette of straddling a complete stranger had put me off previously. And they certainly didn’t abate on my first ride. A highway stretch straight off the bat had me shuddering (not literally, I didn’t have the balance yet for that), and was exacerbated by the fact I’d thrown my mobile in an unsealed trouser pocket in my hurry to just get the ride over with. We both lived to tell the tale though, and within a couple more rides, I was feeling considerably more comfortable with the experience. Even if I did have to occasionally have to get my driver to help release my helmet strap at the end of the ride.

My other fear was similarly rooted in social awkwardness. With my favourite band, Linkin Park, reforming, I’d been disappointed when their first tour was announced short notice, and we were completely unable to get to any of the dates/venues due to existing travel commitments (unless we had fancied a quick return to Bogota, which we did not). So I was pleased to see that we’d be in Bangkok on the exact date one of the advance album listening parties was taking place in a rock bar in the city. Except for the fact that meant going to a bar. Alone. I was 50/50 about whether I’d back out, but curiosity about the music got the best of me, and I figured that the worst that could happen was that I sit and stare at my phone while pretending to be in my own private hovel.

As I arrived, I was first perturbed, and then reassured, to find that there was no space on the wall to cling to, it had already been taken over by locals on their phones. I had found my people. I was possibly the only westerner in the room, but good fortune led me to standing next to a sociable, native English speaking, Bangkok resident, Chakrit. 

Between listening to the album, I enjoyed having someone to get to know. And it turned out to be very helpful too. Chakrit could translate various things that were happening including a quiz in Thai halfway through the album play, and later when some “special guests” appeared, explaining that they were contestants on the Thai version of “The Voice”.

I had only really been intending to stay for the album play, but with the company found myself happy to stay for two Linkin Park tribute bands. Then to round it off, embarked on a twenty minute scooter ride home. I almost felt like an entirely different person!

Brand new Tash (and Ricki)’s next stop would be Ayutthaya. A relatively short distance from Bangkok, it is another ancient capital filled with historic temples. The city was destroyed by the Burmese in 1767, but its ruins remain a UNESCO World Heritage Site today.

An efficient way to get round them was to borrow bicycles from our guesthouse. Bikes are starting to become more commonplace on our travels now, but it was a real first as I approached a roundabout and had to consider whether I would need to give way for an elephant. They are the stars of Thailand, but it was upsetting to see them corralled and being used for rides in Ayutthaya.

Another, less troubling, tradition we encountered for the first time in Ayutthaya was the national anthem.

As we hunted for dinner in a street food market one night, it occurred to me that as a piece of music played, a number of the stallholders and local browsers had suddenly gone stock still. A quick Google reassured me that time hadn’t stopped, rather that the anthem is played at 8am and 6pm in public spaces each day, and citizens are generally expected to pause for it. Somehow we had completely missed it on our previous trip to Thailand, but we would see it several times more this year, particularly when we were in railway stations at 8am.

Next up was Chiang Mai. This was another Thai city which we had visited the previous year.

We possibly would have skipped it this time round, but the lunar calendar was influencing my decisions again (see also San Pedro de Atacama and Hoi An). We would be in Thailand for the Loy Krathong and Yi Peng festivals, which are most prevalent in Chiang Mai. Loy Krathong involves floating decorated baskets (krathongs) on rivers and lakes to give thanks to the water goddess and let go of misfortunes. Yi Peng, mainly observed in northern Thailand, features the release of sky lanterns, symbolizing the letting go of negativity and making wishes for the future.

As we arrived into Chiang Mai, the popularity of the festivals provided a very different atmosphere to what we had experienced previously. What should have been a fifteen minute song kraew (communal taxi) journey turned into over an hour, as our driver inched through crowds to drop off points in each of the north, south, east and west of the historic centre. 

Having seen most of the sights in 2024, we could take our days in Chiang Mai easy, and save our energy for navigating the evening festivities. A parade was the centrepiece, while vendors sold beautiful krathongs along the road and riverside. 

As for the lantern releases, these are technically illegal although there are a couple of mass gatherings in the rural areas. Unfortunately our experience in the song kraew made us nervous, and fearing we would end up miles from civilization without a ride back to town, we decided to stick to where we knew, fairly confident there would be at least some rule breakers lighting up the sky.

This guess proved to be accurate, and not only that, but fireworks being released haphazardly on the bridges added to the joyful chaos.

Our second evening was spent in the more sedate Khlong Mae Kha (Mae Kha canal), where the quaint waterside buildings are being reinvigorated with a Japanese vibe. With less projectiles, it was a much more serene and family friendly experience.

We combined the lively evenings with an early start on our second day in the city. One visit we hadn’t managed in 2024, was to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a sacred pilgrimage site known for its stunning views, Lanna architecture, and a 306-step staircase adorned with naga (mythical sea serpents). Perched on the hillside, it’s recommended to visit at sunrise, and getting used to early starts, I was (somewhat) happy to oblige.

My good intentions were thwarted though, as our Uber reached one of the university buildings and a road closure came into view. Not only were the lunar festivals in play, but it was the start of a new academic year. And in poor timing for us, this includes the tradition where thousands of new students hike from the university to…Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Not quite the peaceful, reverent sunrise we were expecting. With the taxi unable to venture further by road, and the driver advising us it was a two hour walk from where we currently were, we had to abandon plans as we didn’t have the necessary provisions.

Instead, it was back to town where we took advantage of the quiet hours to navigate the backstreets, as locals slowly woke to work and monks collected their alms.

Despite being structured in our planning all year, the one time we were lax in arranging onward transport turned out to be a mistake. It really shouldn’t have surprised us that playing by ear during a major festival would leave buses between Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai fully booked. With no other options, we ended up taking a taxi for the 180km journey—an unexpected expense but a necessary one. Thankfully taxis in Thailand are considerably cheaper than in the UK for the same distance.

One of our better planned Thai transport experiences – another sleeper train, this time with convertible berths (and Ricki tucking into a sausagey snack)

Chiang Rai, a city in northern Thailand, is known for its unique blend of culture, history, and artistic expression. While often overshadowed by its rhyming neighbor, Chiang Mai, it offers a quieter, more surreal charm. From striking temples to lush jungle treks, Chiang Rai is a place where tradition and creativity intertwine.

Our journey led us to three temples, each with its own distinct character. The White Temple, Wat Rong Khun, felt like stepping into a dream. Its gleaming white exterior and mirrored accents made it seem almost unreal, a comic book in 3D, or a gigantic steampunk wedding cake.

Inside, contemporary murals blended pop culture with Buddhist imagery, an unexpected mix of the sacred and the modern. Unfortunately you can’t take photos, so I’ll leave the pictures of Hello Kitty, Elvis, Pokemon and Sailor Moon to your imagination. I’m just disappointed there was no Scooby Doo!

At the Blue Temple, Wat Rong Suea Ten, the religious iconography was more traditional but the deep blue walls and golden accents still lent a distinctive identity. A massive white Buddha sat at the center, while visitors queued for photos.

The temple’s intricate paintings told stories of Buddhist philosophy, their rich colors standing out in the dim light, and once more, the outside had an equally artistic flare.

The Black House, or Baan Dam Museum, contrasted starkly with the others. Rather than a single, cavernous space, a collection of dark wooden buildings displayed an unusual mix of sculptures, animal bones, and abstract art. It can be unsettling and fascinating, and is an exploration of life, death, and artistic expression through an unconventional lens.

By this year’s standards, it felt like it had been some time since we had enjoyed the great outdoors. Leaving the city behind, we joined a small group trek through the hillside tribal villages and dense jungle.

The trail wound through lush greenery, treating us to beautiful views of tea plantations.

Along the way, our guide, Baht, would teach us about flora and fauna, at one point letting us try a plant bud which left our palates tingling. Our stops in the tribal villages provided more edible treats, in the form of homemade rice whiskey and a home cooked meal for lunch.

With uneven terrain, occasionally slippy stones, and plants growing wild, our sections through the jungle required constant attention. Baht, obviously well practiced in the art, somehow managed to carve and whittle souvenir bamboo cups for us as he went.

No amount of familiarity though could protect him from me, as I embodied the spirit of a stampeding elephant, nearly taking him to the ground having let my pace build too quickly on a downhill slope. Needless to say, we did all manage to finish our jungle adventures in one piece.

We started and ended our visit to Chiang Rai in the same way – an evening drink at a small rooftop bar, with views of the city and an hourly sound and light show at the elaborate landmark Chalermphrakiat Clock Tower. It was all worth the unexpected taxi trip!

Tash’s Treats

Having visited Thailand before, there were some favourite foods we were looking forward to trying again, as well as some new ones:

Pad Kra Pao (Basil Mince and Rice) – Pad Kra Pao (ผัดกะเพรา) is one of Thailand’s most beloved street foods. It features minced meat—typically pork (moo) or chicken (gai)—stir-fried with plenty of garlic, fresh chilies, and fragrant holy basil leaves. The dish is intensely savory with a bold spicy kick and the distinct peppery aroma of the basil. Served hot over jasmine rice and often topped with a crispy-edged fried egg, this is a staple on many a menu, and great for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Pad Thai – possibly Thailand’s most famous dish – Stir-fried rice noodles with eggs, tofu, tamarind sauce, fish sauce, dried shrimp, bean sprouts, and often shrimp or chicken, topped with crushed peanuts and lime.

Som tum – green papaya salad, often with quite a kick of chilli!

Khao soi – Khao Soi (ข้าวซอย) is a rich and hearty noodle curry originating from Northern Thailand, particularly Chiang Mai. This comforting dish features egg noodles in a creamy coconut milk-based curry broth, seasoned with yellow curry paste and topped with a piece of tender chicken or beef. A handful of crispy fried noodles sits on top, adding crunch and texture. It’s a must try in Chiang Mai, and this time round we found ourselves queuing for a Michelin bib gourmand recommended restaurant, as well as having featured on Netflix’s Somebody Feed Phil. It was delicious, but I’ve tried equally as good khao soi elsewhere in the city, so I’m still not sure it was worth the wait in the sun!

Pork belly – Thailand definitely rivals Colombia in terms of its ability to cook a succulent bit of pork with perfectly crispy skin!

Mango sticky rice – Mango sticky rice is Thailand’s most famous dessert. This sweet treat pairs perfectly ripe, juicy mango slices with warm glutinous rice soaked in a sweetened coconut milk sauce. It is often garnished with toasted mung beans. Before we visited Thailand, I couldn’t understand what all the fuss was about over mango sticky rice, but it’s a perfectly balanced dish and never disappointed.

Thai tea – Thai iced tea, is a sweet, milky beverage known for its vibrant orange hue and unique flavor. It’s made from strongly brewed black tea, then mixed with sugar and condensed milk before being poured over ice. The drink is usually finished with a splash of evaporated milk on top, giving it a creamy texture and rich taste. Last year I wasn’t a huge fan, but it must be an acquired taste and this year it became a firm favourite.

Butterfly pea juice – a visually appealing herbal drink made from the petals of the butterfly pea flower, known for its deep blue color. The drink is usually served chilled and lightly sweetened, with lime juice often added to create a magical color change from blue to purple due to its natural pH sensitivity. Fun and refreshing.

Finally, one restaurant in Bangkok’s speciality, runny egg noodles. Also with a Michelin bib gourmand rating, you either have to get there early or be prepared to queue. We first encountered this place on a street food tour in 2023. A bowl of fried noodles is topped with a fried egg which breaks apart to make a runny sauce. I’d been thinking about it all year and was worried it would disappoint on our return visit. Happily this wasn’t the case, and we even made it back for round three.